OS:Bedini SG:Replications:Marcel Mushik
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I would like to thank John Bedini for sharing a lot of this technology with those of us who like to tinker. I would also like to thank Rick Friedrich and John Koorn for providing their information so that others may follow. Not forgetting a few other people on the groups that helped offline. Even though this setup is not working permanently, yet, to actually see this technology work right in front of my own face was really a dream come true. It has really strengthened my motivation to study the energy, and hopefully I can help others do the same. Like I said, this setup is not self running on a permanent basis. There are some problems that need to be tended to. But I feel that it’s close, so I’m providing my build information for anyone who needs help, so this might sound a little like a “how to” article, but in reality this replication involves a lot of tinkering and thought, as every setup will be different. Great learning experience I might add.
I have to say also that some of the info I give, or an opinion of mine, might not be correct. I am very new to this field of study, a little under a year so far. So if you catch me saying something that doesn't make sense, please just forgive my ignorance. And like I say in the videos, I'm not posting this information to prove any overunity. I would just like to give my small findings for those who are trying this same thing.
Here are a few video links of when self charging was occuring.
Semi self runner (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmYEZm4Y3XM)
Semi self runner 2 Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-unsh60_-xU)
Semi self runner 2 Part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-J-bRMNNTI)
The circuit was built as close as I could get to the “John Bedini Monopole Mechanical Oscillator Energizer with Simplified School Girl Circuit”. A few minor changes were made because of what I have to work with, and what I could get at the stores. But these were not major changes. My running coil is a bit smaller, because that was the spool I had to work with. Same core diameter, but about an inch shorter. I used about 450 turns of 0.5 mm wire quad filler. I am using the same transistors, MJ21194, but I have three running. My diodes are about the same specs, but something different that I got here at my local electronics parts store. The rods in the running coil are steel hangers that I cut up. Not the best, but they seem to work ok. The energizer coil on the top is one strand wound, that is multiple sizes, all around 0.5 mm, but again all I had at the time were a bunch of pieces that I had to wind out and solder together. The top coil has the bunch of R60 welding rods, as it is the spool that I received in my first SSG kit. The R60’s give a good push, I recommend those or something similar. My bridge rectifier is something different from this store here, again with almost the same specs. Both coils are around 2-3 mm away from the magnets. I actually just put them close, and backed them off until the vibration was tolerable. As long as it’s not two inches away, I don’t think this is too critical. At full speed the circuit draws around 310 ma. More than I would like, but it seems to be working so I’m not going to argue that much. The wheel is a 23 inch aluminum bike wheel. I have 12 of the ceramic magnets that I received from my first SSG kit. They are single stacked, north south configuration. For my commutator I used a piece of wood with a plastic bracket. There are a few pieces of circuit board on there to space it a little. The copper contacts on the plastic bracket are out of a relay. They seemed to be the best for the job. I have tried different wires, and different metal pieces, and copper or alloyed copper seems to work the best. Naturally the relay contacts were made to fit that specific reason, so I went with those. Here are some pictures showing the commutator.
The pulse comes on the release of the contact. As one will see there usually is a large arc that accompanies the break. Using the commutator you will have to try and get the timing correct. I wrote in my video that I remember getting one setup to work pulsing after the north pass. And as far as I can remember, I do remember that. If that makes any sense. The theory, as far as I can tell from Tom Bearden’s explanation, is that the back pulse is stimulating the battery into an abrupt absorption of the radiant energy. There are a few different processes that combine creating a large net gain of energy, which is then put out into the circuit when the transistors fire as well as into the battery for charging. So it would make sense to me for this happen right before the transistors fire. But then again my memory is horrible, so I might be totally wrong on this. To help time this thing, at first I was watching for the arc. Then I got the tip to use one of the neon bulbs. One of these can be put across the bridge rectifier + and -, and it will light up when the pulse get large. There are spots where the pulse will give you a recharge effect, and there are spots where it will work against you. As you move the timing around the pulse of the running coil, you will notice there are a couple spots on that magnet pass where the arc, or bulb, will be the brightest. The correct timing is right around one of those. Not necessarily on the brightest point, but close. On other setups I tried putting an energizer pulse point at every north magnet. This of course requires pretty precise measurements, because if your pulse is not on the right spot, it could be on the wrong spot. I had a few working with me and a few working against me, so I scratched that idea until I can afford my own machine shop. Here are some pictures of the scope shots, one with the energizer coil on the bottom showing the alignment to the trasistor pulse on top, and one of the energizer coil to show what it looks like alone.
I think to get this thing running better a few things are going to need to happen. One is that my energizer coil could have more wire. I am still not familiar with “capacitance” of a coil, but I’m getting there. I tried taking a quad filler 18 gauge and running the wires is series. For some reason I could not get this to work, and the wire was wound over what the spool could hold. The single strand seemed to work the best from what I tried. I would also like to double stack the magnets again. I tried this before, but ended up taking them off for another project. I think this would give a bit more umph to the system. As well as placing the magnets a little bit closet. I noticed from some of the scope shots that I could have them a bit closer together. Also the running coil needs to be replaced with something a little more efficient. Better coil, and a better core. And the commutator should be built so that the contact does not involve a contact breaking impact. Mine is making a strong connection, but it’s slapping too hard. I would also like to experiment with maybe a longer contact of the energizer coil. I was told that shorter is better, and I agree with that on the basis of it will have less drag on the magnets. But I’m not sure how it would affect it if I was able to do a longer contact, assuming I could avoid the drag. Does that make anyone else think about a window coil? That is on the to-do list..
That is it for the presentation. I hope this helps someone get one running. It is really a thrill to see work on your own bench.
